Mandy Oxley Swan on skin concerns, SPF and exfoliation:

What is your skin concern? 

Dry - Intrinsic. Typical appearance is dull and rough. A lack of lipids(oils) in the skin. Minimal sebaceous secretions. An impaired acid mantle. Should not overstrip the skin. 
 
Fine lines and wrinkles - Basically a furrow or fold on the skins surface. Reduced elastin. A result of the ageing process as the collagen fibres breakdown - the longer fibres stay in a folding state permanently hence a small fold/wrinkle. 
 
Fine lines and loss of elasticity - loss of structural integrity. The internal scaffolding of the skins dermal layer - elastin and collagen breaks down over time as we age. The skin loses its bounce plus the elastin loses its recoil. The eyes show these first signs of ageing. 
 
Oily - Intrinsic. A result of over-active sebaceous glands. Skin has a thicker texture with a slight sheen with open pores. Can be sallow in colour. Blemishes and comedones. 
 
Sensitivity/Redness - Commonly mis-diagnosed. Sensitive skin is genetically predisposed. Sensitised skin is hyper reactive skin as a result of external factors such as pollution, chemicals and lifestyle and can occur in anyone. Skin may appear thin and translucent. Tightness after washing , prone to blotchiness and itching or stinging. Broken capillaries across nose and cheeks. Can be pre-disposed to rosacea. Ages quickly. 
 
Dull/Dehydrated - Water deficient skin. With ageing the outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum loses its moisture content as a result of losing lipids plus its ability to bind and retain water. Loss of Hyaluronic acid results in the skin appearing tight and fine lines show easily. When manipulated the skin looks crepey. Dermal dehydration manifests as deeper wrinkles. 
 
Pigmentation - Hyper-pigmentation is darker patches/spots of darkened skin. Caused by erratic melanocyte activity as a result of accumulative UV exposure. Can also be a result of hormonal changes such as the contraceptive pill and pregnancy (melasma & chloasma). Hypo-Pigmentation is the loss of colour as a result of melanocyte depletion after the age of 30 or so.

 

Exfoliation
Exfoliation has a range of benefits for the skin:
-Improved barrier function. When damaged elements of the barrier layer are removed skin renewal is encouraged.
-Increased skin hydration. Skin renewal causes new cells to rise to the surface bringing  more  lipids for improved hydration.
-Smoother and brighter skin. Removing dull cellular debris makes the skins surface look polished and smoother.
-Controls congestion. Removing clogged cells helps reduce congestion in the follicles thus allowing sebum to flow freely and cause less breakouts.
-Reduced pigmentation. Removing pigmented cells that have risen to the surface of the epidermis makes the skin appear more translucent.
 
What is an exfoliant?
 
An exfoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the surface Stratum Corneum to reveal newer, smoother skin underneath. It can be either mechanically or chemically.
 
Mechanical Exfoliation is either a tool or material that uses friction and abrasion and removes the superficial layers only. ie corn cob meal, rice bran, walnut shell or a brush or sponge.
 
Chemical Exfoliation utilises chemicals such as Hydroxy Acids, Vitamins and Enzymes.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s) and enzymes such as papain and bromelain.  Also glycolic acids. All these exfoliants are well known but theres a new kid on the block. PCA’s. Polyhydroxy acids. They have a larger molecular size and have hydrating properties but the key thing is they can be less irritating which is good news for more sensitive skin that may be wary of exfoliation plus pregnant women can use .
 
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SPF - The Facts

1. The Sun-AKA Skin Enemy No 1. UV Exposure is the skin’s biggest skin ager. 10% of ageing is the natural ageing process but 90% of skin ageing is caused by UV and environmental factors such as pollution- known as photo-ageing.
2. Its vital to understand UV. There are 2 types of UV-UVA & UVB. UVB is responsible for sunburn and, in turn skin cancer. UVA penetrates the skin more deeply and is more associated with pigmentation and premature skin ageing. It can also cause skin cancer. Look out for products that contain both UVA & UVB protection- these are known as “broad spectrum”.
   
3. Choose  the right level of protection . SPF=Sun Protection Factor. There is not a one size fits all to choosing SPF and what you choose depends on your skin type. A general rule is the fairer your skin-the higher SPF is required.
   
4. There are 2 types of SPF- physical and chemical. Physical are generally better for those with sensitive skin as they contain mineral ingredients - either Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide reflect and scatter the suns rays rather the product being absorbed into the skin. Chemical SPF’s- these use active ingredients that absorb UV radiation.
   
5. Apply your SPF properly. Ensure you cover your whole face and body-not forgetting tips of ears and hands. Be generous in the application-don’t skimp! Its best to apply your SPF 15 mins or so before going out in the sun so the SPF has time to bond with your skin,
   
6. Be sun safe. Try to avoid the sun between 12-3pm when  its at its strongest.
   
7. Rehydrate the skin with a good cooling lotion after UV exposure.
   
8. It's generally recommended to use SPF all year round. Go for SPF 20 or so from October to March then higher to SPF 30-50 from April- September. Even in the UK!
   
9. Don’t ignore your lips. Look for lip balms with built in SPF to protect the delicate, thinner skin here.
   
10. Despite all this its recognised that many people are Vitamin D deficient as a result of lack of sun/UV exposure. Dermatologists recommend getting 15-20 minutes of sun on your skin each day. Expose a large part of your body such as legs or back to get full benefit. Perhaps a bit tricky after all this rain but a little bit of sun each day does wonders too for general mood and wellbeing.